
Iceland
Part One of Three
The Arrival
My second visit to Iceland was a somewhat longer and a little more planned than my first, but just as lively. First time I would classify as a shambles, lost fishing tackle, days and days of heavy drinking in Copenhagen before waking up in Reykjavik with two German lesbians. The whole sleazy drama only lasted a few days with me hot footing it back to Sweden with huge mobile phone bill and life long dislike for cauliflower.
Within months of my return home to Sweden I was on my way back, even in the total chaos of my last visit I had seen enough to be sold and consequently haunted by the raw beauty of the place, fascinating culture and prehistoric landscape, and of course the chance of spot of salmon fishing. Checking in at Icelandic Airs desk at Stockholm’s central, Arlanda Airport I got duly fleeced in the way off excess baggage for my awkward pipe, stuffed to the brim with the carbon sticks that set me free, truly was a pain to cart about. Complaining to my wife to be Anna, we wasted no time at all making a dash to the nearest watering hole (as you do) in the sprawling international terminal of the terminally ill.
We had meet briefly a while back at some New years party, a short lived fling with drifted apart, but recently found each other again, which is what you do when your dieing for bunk up. I suggested that we take job on Iceland, work hard, snare a few salmon and fuck a lot, well I didn’t over accentuate the salmon fishing, just dropped it in gently. She thought it an interesting offer, and took a year out of University, thus duly finding herself sitting in an airport bar, oiling the old cogs before we ended up in the asshole of the world. As usual I somewhat over did it on the gin and tonic, tapping the fuselage a few times as I boarded, I was as usual convinced I faced certain death. I staggered a touch pissed down the aisle like some kind of early 90s throw back, you know, doing the old Charlied up primate. I slumped into a window seat and wished everyone would get a bloody move on, always traumatized by those people who mince about when getting on board areooplanes, mind you since having a family I’ve got more developed a highly tuned sense of empathy, still I get severely wound up by mincer’s be it plane, buss or bank, both the one that keeps all the money and dry land adjacent to water, where some of us gather to feel, forget or even fish! Anglers who mince about bug me the most,, but I’ve not got the time to go down that road right now keflavik is just mer hours away, ok anglers with mallets WANKERS!!
I was there nearly half year, so it’s going to be a rather condensed tale, And not the usual wealthy guy goes prancing up Laxa that we’ve all heard about, nearly as many times as wealthy guy goes to catch fucking Nile perch, or Mahseer in India.
“What the fuck did you just say”
When language like this gets used on a full to the gills passenger plane, as the landing gear is dropping, its not so good, a minor scuffle broke out between myself and some Swedish lads just as sober as me, I got my hair pulled and my thighs tickled, this was enough to get myself isolated at the back of the plane, restrained until all the other passengers had left including a tearful Anna. I sat looking out the planes rear porthole I remember thinking it really did resemble the moon, black volcanic rock as far as the eye could see, like no other place on earth, well maybe Norfolk after copious quantities of nuclear fallout. I was escorted to the baggage collection and led into a small room
I thought I knew what was going happen next, either PC plod was about to make an appearance, or I was going to get my bags and large awkward pipe back and duly marched back up the tarmac and bundled off back to Sweeeeden, minus an Anna.
What did in fact happen, helped me begin to fall in love with Iceland and the odd, rather innocent and charming people that inhabit it, more than ever, yea right!
This bearded old guy wearing a fancy official looking suit, customs control or what not comes in and tells he’s going to wash my equipment, “What?” and that he knows the flight is a boring one, he also tells me he knows what it was like to be young bla, bla, bla! I wished I hadn’t used so much tape to reinforce the end caps; it took him an eternity to cut and scrape them free, then I remembered I had even packed rod rests, this gave me an immediate pang of home sickness, short lived and interrupted by;
“My colleague is looking after your girl friend, you needn’t be worried” delivered in a forced official yet friendly voice, my heads banging, we are talking miniature monkeys with silver cymbals. He sprays and dips my net, spare spools and rods, doing so he continues to question me. How long am I planning on staying, were and with whom, I give him the full story about finding the job on the internet, for a couple to work on a livestock farm on the banks of a salmon river, and that we have to meet our new employer in Reykjavik in about an hour, panic was setting in, as the small ape was doing his best Keith Moon.
“You have missed the buss you understand” he informs me that there are no busses now until the evening flight from Düsseldorf arrives. Keith’s just been joined by Mani, I new what a packet of fags cost, a fucking taxi into Reykjavik, were talking the price of a kidney!
After the Spanish inquisition, and my tackles decontamination, that shit better not of damaged my line I remember thinking, even unused bulk spools had been treated, apparently not a fisherman then. I was led out to meet a somewhat disgruntled Anna, she was bearing up nether the less, we stood under the apron of the airport terminals door way, both staring beyond the empty car park out over our new lunar looking home, she had look on her face that really did say “What the fucking hell am I doing”
A huge four wheel drive jeep screeches up to within a few feet of, well my feet, and a tinted glass window is lowered. A hair shrouded mouth full of gold fillings tells me to throw my bags in the back and hop in. It’s our friendly customs guy; he seems very different out of uniform, like an Icelandic, bearded version of Ian Dury. He tells me his shifts over and he’s heading back to Reykjavik, offers me a smoke, and insures me I will make my connection. What a touch, I’m thinking to myself, and I’m positive Anna is secretly enjoying the chaos as it unfolding; well I know she did, but at that present time she kept up a very convincing and water tight look of disapproval, her arms folded, and the corners of mouth turned down, Christ she looked like her mother sometimes, not bad thing really! She’ll get over it once we get stuck into the duty free. I take a long hard drag on one of mateys lucky strikes, as the first signs of the city start appearing on the horizon, colourfully painted zinc roofs, billboards advertising four wheel drives, and a overall look of general human existence.
We disembark from the nicotine stained safety of our saviours twenty wheeled, mad max style moon buggy, wish him all the best, and get into a dirty white rust bucket excuse of a pickup, only fifteen minutes late. At the wheel is a miserable looking women “cow” who is I believe in her thirties but looks like she’s fifty. The smell of animal shit is horrendous; the seats are covered in hay and some unimaginable crap that’s giving off a right hum, our luggage is left to roll about on the flat bed with what looks like engine parts on a pallet, don’t suppose they come into town that often so there probably killing two birds, pick up the slaves and a new overhead oily cam shaft whats it, what ever the fucking thing is it better not damage my tube of carbon antennas, at this time in my life, what the fuck did I know about travel insurance!
There was something I believe included by the travel agent, but I wonder if being sort of homeless might have affected my statutory rights? Mind you, come to think of it the old Purist would have made a nice claim.
I immediately become self aware of my stale gin pant as she informs me that; we shall only get one evening off a week, and that’s the only time they will permit drinking, her old man could drive us the twenty kilometres to the pub, but cant bring us home, which felt like code for “your not going to be drinking anything young man, as the taxi home from the pub will cost you your weeks wages, once food and board is deducted. I asked about the fishing, her husband had stated matter a factley in our email correspondence that they lived on the banks of a very productive salmon river, one would imagine on the banks meant with in sight of possibly, not the two day hike madam has just informed me of. Alarm bells were ringing as we shoot through some pretty breath taking landscape, I felt duped and very thirsty!
“Are you hungry?”
This was her way I suppose of copping out of making an evening meal, we turned into some really pikie looking fast food selling shit hole in the outskirts of Selfoss. Added concelation, river we just passed over looked stunning, like angry milk coloured snake, an unclogged artery in land free from pollution, discarded shopping trolleys. I ordered a 150g burger super meal with large coke, and longed for few cans of red stripe, instead of this litre of oxygenated syrup. I contemplated just grabbing the bags and walking off, Anna looked shell shocked, bless her, whist I was busy speculating our get away, and the fact it may well be tuff finding lob worms in amongst the volcanic rock, we at our over priced junk food in silence,
We made our way further though the Jurassic landscape, bubbling and steaming, sulphur stinking and almost dream like, fairytale land, the burger sauce I had split on my jeans was clashing terribly with the excrement flavoured interior. We passed over some really horny looking rivers, some thunderous unfisherble beasts, and other more refined and delicate with of course little plaques announcing the river, and fact it’s private.
The pickup’s suspension was playing havoc on my cola filled bladder, a terrible case of the Mile End blues was kicking in, I had a mouth like a nuns, and headache made worse from the stink. Anna continued to look shell shocked, numb with a distinct hue of pale! We turned onto a dirt road, after about twenty five minutes we pass a grave yard in the middle of, well no where. Our chauffer/employer master of conversation! Informs us it’s the family grave. Hmm, they burry there own dead, how quaint. After another few minutes driving along a pit holed track we pull up to what looks like a giant shoe box, white with treble glazed glass windows, its surrounded by dogs and dirty looking children playing with broken toys and garden tools, there’s two huge livestock sheds at the back, and not a bloody salmon river in slight.
We shake farmer Giles’s dirty shovel hand, and are ushered in; leaving our shoes next to about thirty pairs of Wellington boots in every size and colour imaginable, the bloody stink from the pickup has impregnated me! She mutters something in Iceland to her old man, I’m then duly offered a glass of fresh milk, I reach at warm and thick consistency, not the most refreshing of beverages; I smile as we’re shown the amenities, and told we should rest now, as it’s an early start in the morning. Once in the privacy of our room. Bare with nothing more than a stained mattress and some seen better days curtains, we got started on the Famous grouse; both laugh and cry then fall asleep in each others arms.
I dreamt lucidly of falling into the icy cold, and murky depths of melting glacial river, I couldn’t breath under water, gold coins were falling like snow flakes, the more I collected the faster I sank, in a blind panic I jettisoned the coinage, and rose to the surface together with a dozen or so huge salmons with human breasts.
I woke in a cold sweat, Anna fast a sleep, I drank from the tap, opened the widow for a smoke, it was soon dawn, soon time to start work, I speculated about breakfast as the cigarette sparked hunger pains that tested my somewhat delicate constitution, I needed the toilet fast, Mr turtle head had quite possibly melted.
Once seated round the breakfast table with the Adams family, it became apparent that it was yet another helping of acrid milk and corn flakes that weren’t Kellogg’s! Not some hearty rustic buffet I had imagined whilst spraying there toilet bowl with the remnants of the last twenty four hours. I tried to spark up conversation about the salmon fishing, but was cut off, told there would be plenty of time that later, we must eat at once and make our way to the cow shed. Missy Farmer then throws old shovel hands a look like a smacked puppy. They both get up and wonder in the kitchen. Ever feel like you don’t really know what the hells going on. I was struggling with the cereal from hell, and the evasiveness and all together unwillingness to talk about the fishing, Fuck the cows, I came to catch a salmon, I looked out the grimy window, and surveyed the altogether bleak and barren landscape, I smile decline more of the delicious pig feed, as the box is rustled just inch’s from my nose, by one of ten or so dirty looking offspring, quite apparent there’s not much on old TV, judging by the shear amount of procreation that’s been going here. I start feel a little peeved, it seemed just the shear mention of salmon is enough to spark the pair off in what sounds like pretty aggressive Icelandic! A right ruckus is unfolding in the kitchen, a door slams, and the sprogs disperse, I’m left fantasising about the possibilities of home births in place like this, what they call in the local vet? And whether the clutch on my old 4010 would cope with a large salmon, it had handled a few Swedish asp recently, but possibly could do with a service, Anna draws me back from oblivion! Time to get started!
We wondered up to the cow shed, I was decked out in brand new Gore-Tex hiking boots, trousers, topped of with a Fjällräven anorak. Mobile phone, twenty Marlboro Lights clutched firmly in my paws, out pops matey from a small door way in what looks like yellow chest waders totally covered in cow shit, and says;
“Is this the clothes you have come to work in?”
I don’t consider myself a townie, but that moment I felt like a fish out of water, he laughs and gestures for us to follow him in, I’m hit with a wall of hot ammonia, cows are standing around in there own shit, the ceiling is low, no real ventilation to speak of, this sets off a chain reaction, you just cant fathom how disgusting it was, first up comes my cornflake breakfast, Anna and the farmer looked slightly confused as I heave and choke, leaving a exceptionally neat pile of almost digested morning flakes, I then turn round coughing and spluttering, and get the hell out of what I can only describe as fucking hell on earth, once out in the fresh air I spark up a fag, and crouch down for moment, the ammonia stink is lingering in my nasal passages, I reach again before I get up and start making my way back to the house, I’ve had enough! Anna chases after me saying the farmer says it can take a bit of getting used too, the cow shed that is.
As we pack our bags, we wonder how the hell we are going to escape. Yes as you can imagine they were not at all pleased about our abrupt departure, but then again where was that bloody salmon river ehh? Bastards!
We walked that morning god knows how many kilometres, loaded up with rucksacks, holdalls and assorted bits and bobs, after there point blank refusal to drive us. I spent a small fortune on calling the Icelandic equivalent of the job centre on my numerous fag breaks, the old bags where chaffing something rotten, past the grave yard and first on your left after god knows where!
It was hard to think then in that desperate and somewhat fraught moment that that evening, the very same day, I would be sitting at the kitchen table drinking Nescafe and spinning my centrepin reel in eager anticipation, for what snaked slowly past just 200m from my porch. I had landed a job, that included its very own house, and a car “A Nissan” I wasn’t complaining! All of which was as luck would have it situated on a bona fide stretch of salmon river! SORTED! That night we just lay looking at the ceiling, listening to Moseley shoals and the Small faces, on the hi-fi, yep a bloody hi-fi as well!! Whist we thanked our lucky stars and killed the grouse…
Part Two of Three Preview
Bouquets & the Spiritually Sensitive
The escape, the unbelievable stroke of luck, dirty voyeuristic house bugging employers who only employ couples, and arctic charr,
Which I hope to finish in between dirty nappies and some really heavy school work!!
Part One of Three
The Arrival
My second visit to Iceland was a somewhat longer and a little more planned than my first, but just as lively. First time I would classify as a shambles, lost fishing tackle, days and days of heavy drinking in Copenhagen before waking up in Reykjavik with two German lesbians. The whole sleazy drama only lasted a few days with me hot footing it back to Sweden with huge mobile phone bill and life long dislike for cauliflower.
Within months of my return home to Sweden I was on my way back, even in the total chaos of my last visit I had seen enough to be sold and consequently haunted by the raw beauty of the place, fascinating culture and prehistoric landscape, and of course the chance of spot of salmon fishing. Checking in at Icelandic Airs desk at Stockholm’s central, Arlanda Airport I got duly fleeced in the way off excess baggage for my awkward pipe, stuffed to the brim with the carbon sticks that set me free, truly was a pain to cart about. Complaining to my wife to be Anna, we wasted no time at all making a dash to the nearest watering hole (as you do) in the sprawling international terminal of the terminally ill.
We had meet briefly a while back at some New years party, a short lived fling with drifted apart, but recently found each other again, which is what you do when your dieing for bunk up. I suggested that we take job on Iceland, work hard, snare a few salmon and fuck a lot, well I didn’t over accentuate the salmon fishing, just dropped it in gently. She thought it an interesting offer, and took a year out of University, thus duly finding herself sitting in an airport bar, oiling the old cogs before we ended up in the asshole of the world. As usual I somewhat over did it on the gin and tonic, tapping the fuselage a few times as I boarded, I was as usual convinced I faced certain death. I staggered a touch pissed down the aisle like some kind of early 90s throw back, you know, doing the old Charlied up primate. I slumped into a window seat and wished everyone would get a bloody move on, always traumatized by those people who mince about when getting on board areooplanes, mind you since having a family I’ve got more developed a highly tuned sense of empathy, still I get severely wound up by mincer’s be it plane, buss or bank, both the one that keeps all the money and dry land adjacent to water, where some of us gather to feel, forget or even fish! Anglers who mince about bug me the most,, but I’ve not got the time to go down that road right now keflavik is just mer hours away, ok anglers with mallets WANKERS!!
I was there nearly half year, so it’s going to be a rather condensed tale, And not the usual wealthy guy goes prancing up Laxa that we’ve all heard about, nearly as many times as wealthy guy goes to catch fucking Nile perch, or Mahseer in India.
“What the fuck did you just say”
When language like this gets used on a full to the gills passenger plane, as the landing gear is dropping, its not so good, a minor scuffle broke out between myself and some Swedish lads just as sober as me, I got my hair pulled and my thighs tickled, this was enough to get myself isolated at the back of the plane, restrained until all the other passengers had left including a tearful Anna. I sat looking out the planes rear porthole I remember thinking it really did resemble the moon, black volcanic rock as far as the eye could see, like no other place on earth, well maybe Norfolk after copious quantities of nuclear fallout. I was escorted to the baggage collection and led into a small room
I thought I knew what was going happen next, either PC plod was about to make an appearance, or I was going to get my bags and large awkward pipe back and duly marched back up the tarmac and bundled off back to Sweeeeden, minus an Anna.
What did in fact happen, helped me begin to fall in love with Iceland and the odd, rather innocent and charming people that inhabit it, more than ever, yea right!
This bearded old guy wearing a fancy official looking suit, customs control or what not comes in and tells he’s going to wash my equipment, “What?” and that he knows the flight is a boring one, he also tells me he knows what it was like to be young bla, bla, bla! I wished I hadn’t used so much tape to reinforce the end caps; it took him an eternity to cut and scrape them free, then I remembered I had even packed rod rests, this gave me an immediate pang of home sickness, short lived and interrupted by;
“My colleague is looking after your girl friend, you needn’t be worried” delivered in a forced official yet friendly voice, my heads banging, we are talking miniature monkeys with silver cymbals. He sprays and dips my net, spare spools and rods, doing so he continues to question me. How long am I planning on staying, were and with whom, I give him the full story about finding the job on the internet, for a couple to work on a livestock farm on the banks of a salmon river, and that we have to meet our new employer in Reykjavik in about an hour, panic was setting in, as the small ape was doing his best Keith Moon.
“You have missed the buss you understand” he informs me that there are no busses now until the evening flight from Düsseldorf arrives. Keith’s just been joined by Mani, I new what a packet of fags cost, a fucking taxi into Reykjavik, were talking the price of a kidney!
After the Spanish inquisition, and my tackles decontamination, that shit better not of damaged my line I remember thinking, even unused bulk spools had been treated, apparently not a fisherman then. I was led out to meet a somewhat disgruntled Anna, she was bearing up nether the less, we stood under the apron of the airport terminals door way, both staring beyond the empty car park out over our new lunar looking home, she had look on her face that really did say “What the fucking hell am I doing”
A huge four wheel drive jeep screeches up to within a few feet of, well my feet, and a tinted glass window is lowered. A hair shrouded mouth full of gold fillings tells me to throw my bags in the back and hop in. It’s our friendly customs guy; he seems very different out of uniform, like an Icelandic, bearded version of Ian Dury. He tells me his shifts over and he’s heading back to Reykjavik, offers me a smoke, and insures me I will make my connection. What a touch, I’m thinking to myself, and I’m positive Anna is secretly enjoying the chaos as it unfolding; well I know she did, but at that present time she kept up a very convincing and water tight look of disapproval, her arms folded, and the corners of mouth turned down, Christ she looked like her mother sometimes, not bad thing really! She’ll get over it once we get stuck into the duty free. I take a long hard drag on one of mateys lucky strikes, as the first signs of the city start appearing on the horizon, colourfully painted zinc roofs, billboards advertising four wheel drives, and a overall look of general human existence.
We disembark from the nicotine stained safety of our saviours twenty wheeled, mad max style moon buggy, wish him all the best, and get into a dirty white rust bucket excuse of a pickup, only fifteen minutes late. At the wheel is a miserable looking women “cow” who is I believe in her thirties but looks like she’s fifty. The smell of animal shit is horrendous; the seats are covered in hay and some unimaginable crap that’s giving off a right hum, our luggage is left to roll about on the flat bed with what looks like engine parts on a pallet, don’t suppose they come into town that often so there probably killing two birds, pick up the slaves and a new overhead oily cam shaft whats it, what ever the fucking thing is it better not damage my tube of carbon antennas, at this time in my life, what the fuck did I know about travel insurance!
There was something I believe included by the travel agent, but I wonder if being sort of homeless might have affected my statutory rights? Mind you, come to think of it the old Purist would have made a nice claim.
I immediately become self aware of my stale gin pant as she informs me that; we shall only get one evening off a week, and that’s the only time they will permit drinking, her old man could drive us the twenty kilometres to the pub, but cant bring us home, which felt like code for “your not going to be drinking anything young man, as the taxi home from the pub will cost you your weeks wages, once food and board is deducted. I asked about the fishing, her husband had stated matter a factley in our email correspondence that they lived on the banks of a very productive salmon river, one would imagine on the banks meant with in sight of possibly, not the two day hike madam has just informed me of. Alarm bells were ringing as we shoot through some pretty breath taking landscape, I felt duped and very thirsty!
“Are you hungry?”
This was her way I suppose of copping out of making an evening meal, we turned into some really pikie looking fast food selling shit hole in the outskirts of Selfoss. Added concelation, river we just passed over looked stunning, like angry milk coloured snake, an unclogged artery in land free from pollution, discarded shopping trolleys. I ordered a 150g burger super meal with large coke, and longed for few cans of red stripe, instead of this litre of oxygenated syrup. I contemplated just grabbing the bags and walking off, Anna looked shell shocked, bless her, whist I was busy speculating our get away, and the fact it may well be tuff finding lob worms in amongst the volcanic rock, we at our over priced junk food in silence,
We made our way further though the Jurassic landscape, bubbling and steaming, sulphur stinking and almost dream like, fairytale land, the burger sauce I had split on my jeans was clashing terribly with the excrement flavoured interior. We passed over some really horny looking rivers, some thunderous unfisherble beasts, and other more refined and delicate with of course little plaques announcing the river, and fact it’s private.
The pickup’s suspension was playing havoc on my cola filled bladder, a terrible case of the Mile End blues was kicking in, I had a mouth like a nuns, and headache made worse from the stink. Anna continued to look shell shocked, numb with a distinct hue of pale! We turned onto a dirt road, after about twenty five minutes we pass a grave yard in the middle of, well no where. Our chauffer/employer master of conversation! Informs us it’s the family grave. Hmm, they burry there own dead, how quaint. After another few minutes driving along a pit holed track we pull up to what looks like a giant shoe box, white with treble glazed glass windows, its surrounded by dogs and dirty looking children playing with broken toys and garden tools, there’s two huge livestock sheds at the back, and not a bloody salmon river in slight.
We shake farmer Giles’s dirty shovel hand, and are ushered in; leaving our shoes next to about thirty pairs of Wellington boots in every size and colour imaginable, the bloody stink from the pickup has impregnated me! She mutters something in Iceland to her old man, I’m then duly offered a glass of fresh milk, I reach at warm and thick consistency, not the most refreshing of beverages; I smile as we’re shown the amenities, and told we should rest now, as it’s an early start in the morning. Once in the privacy of our room. Bare with nothing more than a stained mattress and some seen better days curtains, we got started on the Famous grouse; both laugh and cry then fall asleep in each others arms.
I dreamt lucidly of falling into the icy cold, and murky depths of melting glacial river, I couldn’t breath under water, gold coins were falling like snow flakes, the more I collected the faster I sank, in a blind panic I jettisoned the coinage, and rose to the surface together with a dozen or so huge salmons with human breasts.
I woke in a cold sweat, Anna fast a sleep, I drank from the tap, opened the widow for a smoke, it was soon dawn, soon time to start work, I speculated about breakfast as the cigarette sparked hunger pains that tested my somewhat delicate constitution, I needed the toilet fast, Mr turtle head had quite possibly melted.
Once seated round the breakfast table with the Adams family, it became apparent that it was yet another helping of acrid milk and corn flakes that weren’t Kellogg’s! Not some hearty rustic buffet I had imagined whilst spraying there toilet bowl with the remnants of the last twenty four hours. I tried to spark up conversation about the salmon fishing, but was cut off, told there would be plenty of time that later, we must eat at once and make our way to the cow shed. Missy Farmer then throws old shovel hands a look like a smacked puppy. They both get up and wonder in the kitchen. Ever feel like you don’t really know what the hells going on. I was struggling with the cereal from hell, and the evasiveness and all together unwillingness to talk about the fishing, Fuck the cows, I came to catch a salmon, I looked out the grimy window, and surveyed the altogether bleak and barren landscape, I smile decline more of the delicious pig feed, as the box is rustled just inch’s from my nose, by one of ten or so dirty looking offspring, quite apparent there’s not much on old TV, judging by the shear amount of procreation that’s been going here. I start feel a little peeved, it seemed just the shear mention of salmon is enough to spark the pair off in what sounds like pretty aggressive Icelandic! A right ruckus is unfolding in the kitchen, a door slams, and the sprogs disperse, I’m left fantasising about the possibilities of home births in place like this, what they call in the local vet? And whether the clutch on my old 4010 would cope with a large salmon, it had handled a few Swedish asp recently, but possibly could do with a service, Anna draws me back from oblivion! Time to get started!
We wondered up to the cow shed, I was decked out in brand new Gore-Tex hiking boots, trousers, topped of with a Fjällräven anorak. Mobile phone, twenty Marlboro Lights clutched firmly in my paws, out pops matey from a small door way in what looks like yellow chest waders totally covered in cow shit, and says;
“Is this the clothes you have come to work in?”
I don’t consider myself a townie, but that moment I felt like a fish out of water, he laughs and gestures for us to follow him in, I’m hit with a wall of hot ammonia, cows are standing around in there own shit, the ceiling is low, no real ventilation to speak of, this sets off a chain reaction, you just cant fathom how disgusting it was, first up comes my cornflake breakfast, Anna and the farmer looked slightly confused as I heave and choke, leaving a exceptionally neat pile of almost digested morning flakes, I then turn round coughing and spluttering, and get the hell out of what I can only describe as fucking hell on earth, once out in the fresh air I spark up a fag, and crouch down for moment, the ammonia stink is lingering in my nasal passages, I reach again before I get up and start making my way back to the house, I’ve had enough! Anna chases after me saying the farmer says it can take a bit of getting used too, the cow shed that is.
As we pack our bags, we wonder how the hell we are going to escape. Yes as you can imagine they were not at all pleased about our abrupt departure, but then again where was that bloody salmon river ehh? Bastards!
We walked that morning god knows how many kilometres, loaded up with rucksacks, holdalls and assorted bits and bobs, after there point blank refusal to drive us. I spent a small fortune on calling the Icelandic equivalent of the job centre on my numerous fag breaks, the old bags where chaffing something rotten, past the grave yard and first on your left after god knows where!
It was hard to think then in that desperate and somewhat fraught moment that that evening, the very same day, I would be sitting at the kitchen table drinking Nescafe and spinning my centrepin reel in eager anticipation, for what snaked slowly past just 200m from my porch. I had landed a job, that included its very own house, and a car “A Nissan” I wasn’t complaining! All of which was as luck would have it situated on a bona fide stretch of salmon river! SORTED! That night we just lay looking at the ceiling, listening to Moseley shoals and the Small faces, on the hi-fi, yep a bloody hi-fi as well!! Whist we thanked our lucky stars and killed the grouse…
Part Two of Three Preview
Bouquets & the Spiritually Sensitive
The escape, the unbelievable stroke of luck, dirty voyeuristic house bugging employers who only employ couples, and arctic charr,
Which I hope to finish in between dirty nappies and some really heavy school work!!

